Baruntse Expedition 34 Day(s)

Baruntse (7161m) is one of the beautiful 7,000m snow peaks in the Himalayas of Nepal. It is also one of the few peaks of this height with a high rate of success of ascent on normal route.

The approach to the mountain follows the Mera Peak trek up to Mera La and then to Baruntse base camp. (5,250m).

Normally, we establish two camps above the base camp in Baruntse climbing. The camp I is set up just below East Col. at an altitude of 5,700m and the camp II is on the South East Ridge at a height of 6,420m

The Baruntse Expedition Route

The route is essentially a straightforward climb on snow and ice with some corniced sections. There are three additional camps above Baruntse Base Camp. The itinerary allows time for acclimatization and possible weather delays. Acclimatization is achieved by ascending to the next high camp, then descending to the previous camp and resting.

Baruntse Base Camp, 5300m, is situated in a broad open valley on the lateral moraine of the Hongu glacier next to a beautiful lake at the base of the mountain. From the Base Camp, we climb the south-east ridge toward the West Col, which is pretty straightforward. Fixed line is needed however, to climb up the challenging 50 ice cliff to the West Col, which brings us to the glacial plateau where we set up Baruntse Camp I, 6000m.

From Camp I, we ascend a long, low-angled glacier using fixed rope. The slope steepens on the approach to a small col on the South-East Ridge proper, where we establish Baruntse Camp II, 6450m.

From Camp II, we push for the summit. First, we make a short steep climb on a 45 ice wall to a small col, 6500m. There some are some steep steps on ice and short sections of rock to ascend, but the big challenge of summit day is the sharp ice shoulder, at around 7000m, that leads onto the summit ridge. Our Sherpa guide will fix ropes to ensure our safe ascent and descent. The wide ridge narrows closer to the true Baruntse Summit, 7129m, where we enjoy stunning views of Mount Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, Ama Dablam, Kanchenjunga and Makalu.